Friday, October 28, 2011

Forays and Failures in Turkish Cuisine: Menemen

I am many things, readers, but there are also many things I am not.

One of these things is a world-class chef.

My limited catalog of cookable recipes includes grilled cheese, macaroni and cheese, baked goods, and breakfast food. You can already imagine how many times I've been down the "dinner for breakfast" road since being in Turkey.

But, I want to learn to cook, because I like to bake... however, most of these Turkish dishes just seem completely out of my reach. So, imagine my excitement when I discovered menemen at this really precious family-run restaurant down the street from our apartment.



Holy cannoli, it is delicious. Eggs, peppers, tomatoes, olive oil, and awesome are the main ingredients. And as I'm eating it, I'm thinking to myself, "I can freaking make this, no problem!"

This blog post is sponsored by that particular incidence of overconfidence.

A few days later, I round up my supplies and I get cracking (literally, since I'm using eggs.)





The victims were collected and looking oh so tasty. As per my recipe, I put my oil in the pan and get it all a-simmering. Then, I add my tomatoes and peppers and sizzle them up until they're cooked but still have a little crunch to them.

You are going to be so delicious
 Oh my gosh, you guys. I was so confident. I mean, I took pictures of this whole event. This was going to be great-- my first step towards mastering Turkish cuisine.


LOOK AT THIS ACTION SHOT.
You don't take these sorts of pictures all willy-nilly.
 So, I add my eggs. Two, to be precise. And I am so pumped. But I realize, because of the difference in the densities (SCIENCE) of eggs and oil, it doesn't seem as though all of eggs are being thoroughly cooked. Even though I have my typhoid vaccination (you would know this if you've been following my adventures for the past two months), I'm not trying to get salmonella or botulism or whatever you can get from uncooked eggs.

And here, readers, is where I make my fatal error.

I began to push my eggs around the pan.

And then everything in the world changed. The whites of the eggs began to change, the yolk began to become less translucent. Oil and egg culminated in a dance that can only be produced at high temperatures over a partially-functional stovetop.

If you can't tell, I pretty much made scrambled eggs.

Pictured: not menemen.
Not that they weren't good, because they were great, they were just not what I had hoped for. I mean, I'm not trying to write blog posts about scrambled eggs. I'm trying to be cultured here.

And just so you know, I tried this again like three days later.

Eggs still scrambled and not menemen.

Don't think I won't keep you posted.

Monday, October 24, 2011

Bursa, Bursa, Bursa!

Wow, I am a blogging MACHINE.

This weekend, baby readers, Greg and I successfully made it from the otogar (read as: bus terminal) in Balıkesir to Bursa all by ourselves. We're extremely accomplished individuals.


From the otogar in Bursa, we got onto the correct city bus (!!!) and sort of made our way to the correct neighborhood. Because we're a pair of individuals who have our priorities straight, we grabbed some lunch before doing anything else.

Pideli kofte. Delish.

Then we walked around, trying to find our way to the Green Mosque and Green Tomb. First, we walked/ got stuck in Koza Han, the historic silk market of Bursa. We visited Koza Han on Sunday too, so I'll get to it later.

Preview of Koza Han.

Interior square of Koza Han.
 Then we walked around the market area, where I bought a half kilo of dried apricots, as seen in the picture below.
They were delicious, of course.
Greg bought some goodies from this candy place.

We'll assume "delicious."

And then finally, after numerous conversations in broken English and Turkish, we found our way to the Green Tomb! The Green Tomb serves as the mausoleum of Mehmed I, the fifth Ottoman sultan (meaning, it's old as hell... like, 1421 old).


While I was shamelessly taking pictures of everything like the tourist I am, a lovely Turkish man by the name of Yunus came up to Greg and I and started talking to us (obviously, in English. We're not that good yet.) After the usual questioning of where we were from and what we were doing in Turkey, Yunus told us that he was currently in charge of completely the upcoming restoration on the Green Tomb. He begin to tell us how the tomb is unique, based both on its shape and the fact that it has a mihrab, the niche in a mosque wall that indicates the direction in which Mecca lies, and therefore, the direction that Muslims should face while praying. Typically, Yunus told us, you don't find mihrabs in Muslim tombs.

Entryway to the tomb. Probably going to put the same ones on my house someday.
This ceiling too, I think.

Sultan Mehmed I!

I haven't decided where in my house this'll go.
The stained glass, although a later addition, is
still awesome.
 So after he educates us on the Green Tomb, Yunus begins to tell us how it's unfortunate that the Green Mosque is also undergoing restoration by him and his company for another several months and is closed to the public. Upon seeing my crestfallen little yabancı face, he asks Greg and I if we'd like to see it. As in, a private mini-tour of the Green Mosque. "Oh yes, new BFF Yunus!" I practically cry out loud!

The Green Mosque! Swoonsies! 
The Green Mosque and Green Tomb are pretty much right next to each other, being parts of the greater Green Complex. When we arrive at the entry to the Green Mosque, Yunus tells us to pay great attention to the detailed carving of the marble door. He tells us that it took one guy three years to carve the whole thing.

Yunus also mentioned that the Green Mosque is a unique example of a mosque because of the fact that inside has a split-level floor to separate the common population from the upper echelons of society. The sultan also had his own room and area for prayer, and below, these side rooms were also used for judicial purposes.

Pictured: JUSTICE.


 Ironically, Yunus also pointed out this circular marble column that was set into the wall which was used to alert people in the mosque when an earthquake was beginning. The marble column would shake, thereby alerting those inside that they should probably get the heck out. Much of the Green Mosque had to be rebuilt after an earthquake hit the area in 1855. This interesting piece of history also answered Greg's question regarding why they call the mosque green when it clearly wasn't.



 After our private tour, Greg and I hung out with Yunus and had some tea (becoming BFFS forever, as well) while he educated us on Turkish carpets and kilims. He also has his own ceramic studio in Bursa, which sold really nice stuff for fairly reasonable prices (I bought a ladybug keychain for 6TL!)

Then, Greg and I visited (for the first time) Ulu Camii, or in English, the Great Mosque. And it was pretty great! First, we walked through Koza Park, which is attached to the silk market of the same name.



 The Great Mosque was really beautiful. And what was really cool was that it wasn't as touristy as the Blue Mosque, and people were actually there to pray.

The inside was really pretty as well. It had so many intricate paintings and motifs on the wall that I didn't even know where to begin in terms of creepy picture taking.




After our sightseeing, Greg and I went to the fancy mall Bursa had to offer, and of course, Greg just HAD to be a superstar.

Kissing babies, all day every day.
Then, we walked back through Koza Park to meet up with Russell and friends so we could grab some delicious Bursa iskender kebap for dinner.

And yes, as usual... delicious.
 After dinner, Greg, Russell, Annika, Margot, and I went out for mezes and drinks. We had so much fun. The food was great, the drinks were great, and the company was just the best!

 

And I like rakı now, so life is really great.




The next morning, we were up and at 'em, starting with a ballin' Turkish kahvaltı before visiting the hamam.

The hamam was an intense experience. I've never felt so sweaty yet so clean in my entire life.

After the hamam, we went up to the Saat Kule (clock tower in Turkish!) to get a lovely view of the city of Bursa.
Pictured: clock tower.

Pictured: Bursa.

 We also visited the tombs of Orhan Gazi and his father, Osman I... or, for those of you familiar with the history of the Ottomans, the FOUNDER of the Ottoman Empire.

He was basically like the O.G. Sultan.

Like the Green Mosque, Orhan Gazi's first tomb was severely damaged during the earthquake of 1855; the new tomb was built right on top of the foundations of the old tomb.




So, Osman. He's pretty important; they named the entire empire after him. He established this new state, soon to be the Ottoman Empire, in 1299. He also allegedly had a dream, where he dreamed of the rise of this new empire to greatness over the next four centuries... he definitely wasn't wrong, especially when the Ottomans more or less began to boot the Byzantines out of the region from the time he established Bursa as his primary city.


Sultan Osman I!

In addition to all of the fun history I saw in Bursa, here are a few freebie images that this weekend produced:
In response to the Kurdish attacks in the southeast, there were
mad protests. I think we ran into like seven of them.

This man was making lollipops, which looked delicious.
 We also finally got to Koza Han, where there were scarves galore!


Silk paintings. On silk. So cool!




 Overall, Bursa was great! I'll be back, there are still a few things I didn't get to see! Womp!
Bye, Bursa. See you soon!

Friday, October 21, 2011

The Top Ten Reasons Why I Love Teaching English in Turkey


Merhabalar, readers!

While I was writing my posts on Istanbul and the Fun Run/Death March (10/16/2011, never forget), I realized that I’ve only been writing about the more exotic, travel-based adventures since September. I’m worried that if you read my blog and only see the pictures of the beautiful places Turkey has to offer, you would think I’m only interested in using my time here in Turkey to only visit those beautiful places and nothing more.

What you have neglected to accurately display and express to you, little baby readers, is how much I have come to love teaching English as a second language.  So in this post, I’m going to tell you more about my university and the classes that I teach there.

I teach Monday through Thursday at the university’s education campus and in their medical technical building. I teach nine forty-five minute classes on conversational English to nursing and education students; I also teach two groups of students, each for a total of five hours a week, that are studying to become English language teachers in high schools and universities across Turkey.

While my forty-five minute classes are fun and have certainly done wonders for my Turkish, it’s the two groups of ELT students who have really shaped my experiences in the classroom thus far. Because many of them attended Anatolian high schools (read as: honors high schools) that specialized in English language teaching, they get my jokes and can even make their own jokes in English. They like talking to me and I like talking to them. More importantly, they are first year students, which makes me feel like I’m still an RA… except I’m never on duty, I never have incidents, and everything I do is a program (but in a good way).

I’ve decided that the best way to convey to you, readers, my love for teaching in the most concise way possible is present you with a list of my top ten favorite classroom/student moments thus far. I think this list itself will give you a better understanding of why I’m glad I’m in Turkey and why I love what I do.



1. Acrostic Love Poems
This is not a typo or a misprint. At the beginning of the term, I was consistently receiving acrostic love poems from one of my students on a twice-weekly basis. At first, I thought that this might be a problem on so many levels—is this okay? I’m not entirely sure. (Oh, I’m sorry— did I make it clear enough that these poems are about me? Because these poems are about me. In fact, the “acrostic” part means that it’s my name being used in the poems.) They get somewhat steamy from time to time, but you know what? They’re hilarious. And they’re even better because they’re in English and the rest of my students get the jokes—in English. How is this bad? It’s not. I think it’s hilarious. My student is writing in English, my students are getting jokes in English. I love it.

2. Pen Pal Madness
Some of you might be aware that the Fulbright ETA programs “requires” (I’m not too sure how stringently this is followed) that ETAs maintain a side project. Being the rule-abiding individual that I am, I created an email exchange / pen-pal program between students at Balikesir University and students at Rowan University. I’ve received an overwhelming response of support from the Rowan community, and while I cannot thank them enough for their help, this side projects certainly still has problems that need to be solved. However, for my students who have successfully gotten in touch with their American pen pals, they only have good things to say. They come into class each week excited to tell me what they and their pen pal talked about over the weekend or since our last class.  It’s pretty great and it makes me really want to make sure that every student I have who wants a pen pal gets one, despite how difficult it’s been to make that happen.

3. Break Time
In Turkey, for every forty-five minutes a university class is in session, they’re allowed a fifteen-minute break. At first, and let me be as clear here as possible, I thought this was bullshit. Forty-five minutes? I’ve had professors who give you a stern talking-to if you leave to go to the bathroom, and these kids get a coffee break after forty-five minutes.  Since the beginning of the term, however, many students would much rather talk to me about things than grab tea or a snack. I don’t like this because of the unending attention I get, I like it because I get to talk to my students in smaller groups and I get to learn about them.  The boys and I talk football (soccer), how to work in the United States, what university in the United States is like…. the girls and I talk where to buy what sorts of clothes in the city center and if I have a boyfriend and how old I am. They’re so funny and so goofy and I think they’re just great.

4. Surprising My Students with My Mad Turkish Skillz
Every weekend, I try and learn some Turkish so I can actually have a chance of someday understanding what in the sweet hell goes on around me. I realized, early on in the term, that Turkish students love when you try and use Turkish. I’m not talking, “Oh, good try! That was really close!” I’m talking standing ovations. My ELT students get the biggest kick out of this. This week, we watched Finding Nemo (more on this success in a little) and had serious technical difficulties in doing so. As two students in my first class were trying to get the DVD to play on the ancient Windows XP software (not a joke), they were talking to one another about which program to use in Turkish. The conversation went a little bit like this:
       Student A: Ama Windows Media Player var mı?
       Student B: Media Player yok, VLC var.
       Mary: Ah! Quick Time var mı?
The looks on their faces… you would have thought that the word of God himself had just been expelled from my lips. This, followed by an eruption of applause and so many “var” and “yok” jokes for the next twenty minutes while we tried to get Nemo to play, which prompted…

5. “Nemo Yok?”
This particular moment gets its own mention, because it was GREAT. So, once I demonstrated to my students that I had an understanding of how to ask if there is or isn’t something (var mi?), they started quizzing me, which they also have a great passion for. As I’m starting to get frazzled watching these kids more or less rewrite the software to make this DVD play, one of my students raises his hand and goes, “So Mary…. Nemo… yok?” It could have been the funniest thing that had happened to me this week. What a well-placed Turklish (yes, Turklish) joke.

6.  Ah Ha Moments! (or, Explaining to My Students What a Kindle Is)
This moment makes this list for purely selfish motivations. I have a lot of difficulty communicating with the students in my nine other classes (as I do with the rest of the Turkish population as well). The other day, while I was waiting for students to show up for class, I had forgotten to put my Kindle away. All of a sudden, some stealthy little Turk was on top of me, asking me what it was. Then—bum-rushed by more interested students. When I realized that they couldn’t understand what I was saying in English, I realized I knew how to say “books inside a book” in Turkish—and we shared an awesome mutual ah-ha! moment. This, of course, is just one of my more recent ah ha! moment experiences, but I think it’s not too shabby of an example.

7. Willie Nelson, Young the Giant, and Middle Brother
Because one of the classes with my ELT students is called Pronunciation & Listening, I thought it might be fun to talk about how, in English, intonation plays a large part in deciphering the meaning of what someone says and how this relates to music. When I asked my students what sort of music they listened to, they more or less said American or Turkish pop or hip-hop.  I had already decided to play Willie Nelson, Young the Giant, and Middle Brother and I was worried my students wouldn’t like it. Not the case at all! They loved it, and it sparked even more conversation topics and one-on-one dialogs than I had expected.

8. Helpful Little Turklar!
This might also be a selfish point, but all of my students, regardless of their proficiency in English, love to help me with things. Male students who are even shorter than I am offer to erase my white boards everyday. When I need to go places or find things, they offer to go with me. They are just great. It’s funny, I would expect middle school students, like those in my student teaching classes, to be that helpful in the classroom… I don’t expect that from university students. It’s really nice.

9. Seeing Students in Public
Seeing university students in public is just as fun as seeing middle school students in public! And, I don’t feel as bad when I’m not in teacher clothes! They love showing off if they’re practiced what we’ve learned in class that week and, like my ELT students, love when I respond in Turkish. Perfect symbiotic relationship.

10. My Newest Student
Okay, this is the most awesome thing ever.

For four years, I had tried to chill with Donald Farish, former president of Rowan University. For four years, I was a faithful fan. I even won a chance to have lunch with him and it never happened. However, this week, my university contact person told me that I’d be teaching another class on Tuesday or Wednesday mornings, depending on the students’ schedules. At this point in my week, I was tired and I was really tired of how frequently my scheduled seemed to shift… until I was told that my new students were the rektor (read: president) and vice rektors (read: vice presidents) of the university. Whattheheck. I was so scared. What do you plan to teach the rektor of a university?!

So we had our first class, and let me tell you, it was the greatest. It was lots of fun, and it went so well that we’re having breakfast together on Tuesday.

I LOVE TURKEY.

The (Not So) Fun Run


Readers, I apologize. I wasn’t entirely honest with you in my last post. I didn’t go to Istanbul purely for its historical value.

I know. I’m ashamed.

Many of us Fulbrighters made the journey last weekend for the opportunity to participate in this:



Yeah, but not the marathon. Half of us did the fun run. Why? Because this is one of the few marathons in the world that’s considered an intercontinental event.

Intercontinental.

INTERCONTINENTAL.

You guys, I walked from Asia to Europe. Over the Bosporus Bridge… I woke up in Europe, had breakfast in Asia, and made it back to Europe by lunchtime.

Is that awesome or is that awesome?

Sure, at first we thought “awesome” too. See all of the fun to have been had below:

 

Where we got dropped off for the run comprised of fun!

FELLOW FUN-RUNNERS!

I can only hope this is a channel dedicated to Jack Bauer and
keeping tabs on his whereabouts at all times.



SO. MUCH. FUN.




 The fun run had it all! Balloons, headbands, wild Turks, wild yabancilar! It was so great! The news was there! They handed free stuff out!

These people are having so much fun!
Alyson's new BFFs.
I can't look at this picture and not laugh. 
The Bosporus! This is just great.


YOU GUYS, LOOK HOW MUCH FUN I'M HAVING.


Back in Europe! So much fun!

 
Then, it started to rain.

Want to know what makes a fun run no longer fun after the first twenty minutes? When it starts to pour as you’re crossing the Bosporus. On foot.

Regardless.

It was still fun. It was the kind of fun you can only have when you’re miserable with people who are also miserable and you can’t do anything but laugh at the miserable situation in which you put yourself.

Let me also say that rain ruins everything. For a frame of reference, Istanbul floods just like Glassboro: it gives you no goddamn warning that your footwear is inadequate until you’re ankle deep in some phantom puddle that just jumped into your path.

Either way, I still had fun. We saw some wild characters, we were probably on television, Alyson and I risked our lives for free Turkish flags (which I later lost anyway). We saw some cool stuff.


And when else am I going to be able to say I walked from Europe to Asia and crossed the Bosporus Bridge on foot? Never, that’s when.

I’m not mad about it.




Russell, on the other hand, looks pissed.